Updated 12 October 2026 · By Mel England
Does your eyeshadow disappear when you open your eyes? Or does eyeliner look lovely while you’re applying it, then seem to take up your whole eyelid?
With hooded eyes, the placement that works in a tutorial may need adjusting to work on your own face. You can still enjoy definition, colour and sparkle. The useful starting point is seeing where your makeup sits when your eyes are open.
I have slightly hooded eyes myself, and I work with many women whose eye shape has changed over time. Here are some of the adjustments I explore with clients.
Start with your eyes open and your brows relaxed
Look straight ahead into the mirror before deciding where to place your colour.
It’s tempting to lift your eyebrows while applying makeup because it gives you more space. But when you relax them afterwards, the makeup can sit somewhere quite different.
Check your work regularly with your face relaxed. That’s the view you’re aiming to enhance.
Place your defining shade where you can see it
A softly blended mid-tone shade can add definition above the visible eyelid fold. The exact position depends on your eye shape, so start with a small amount and check it with your eyes open.
A matte shade is often useful for this area. Blend the edges gradually rather than creating a hard line or carrying the colour straight up to your eyebrow.
You may need a different position on each eye. Aim for a balanced effect when you look straight ahead, rather than copying the same brush movements on both sides.
Keep eyeliner slim to begin with
A thick line can cover much of the visible lid. Try a fine line close to the upper lashes first, then assess whether you want more definition.
A pencil softened with a small brush can be easier to adjust than a sharp liquid line. You can build a little more depth at the outer corner without committing to a dramatic wing.
If you enjoy winged eyeliner, you don’t have to rule it out. Its shape and angle may simply need adapting so the fold doesn’t interrupt it when your eyes are open.
You can still wear shimmer
Hooded eyes don’t mean you have to give up every sparkly shade in your makeup bag.
Try a small amount on the visible lid and look at the effect in natural light. A softly defined matte area with a touch of shimmer can work beautifully; the placement matters more than a blanket rule about what you’re allowed to wear.
Why copying a picture doesn’t always work
Two people can use the same products and get very different results. The visible lid space, eyebrow position and eye shape all affect where the colour appears.
When a client shows me an inspiration picture, I ask what she likes about it. It might be the soft brown tones, the definition at the lashes or the overall balance. We can use those ideas while adapting the placement to her features.
Would personal advice help?
If you’re unsure which products or colours to use, or your old eye makeup no longer feels right, my online makeup consultation gives us time to discuss your questions and review your routine from home.
It’s a private 60-minute appointment on Google Meet, costing £85, with personalised product recommendations and follow-up shopping links. You can join from anywhere in the UK.
For detailed, hands-on help with eyeliner or precise eyeshadow placement, an in-person makeup lesson in Harrogate is the better choice. I can demonstrate and guide you as you practise.
Explore the online consultation or ask which option would suit you.
